The same lipstick can look radiant on one person and dull on another. The difference is not just your skin tone (how light or deep your skin is) but your undertone, the subtle warm, cool or neutral hue beneath the surface. Once you know yours, choosing lipstick becomes much easier.
Key takeaways
- Skin tone is depth; undertone is the hue beneath
- Warm undertones suit golden and orange-based shades
- Cool undertones suit blue-based shades
- Neutral undertones can wear most shades
- Test in daylight, on lips or fingertips
Step 1: Find your undertone
Try these three quick tests in natural daylight:
- Vein test: look at the veins on your inner wrist. Greenish suggests warm; blue or purple suggests cool; a mix suggests neutral.
- Jewellery test: if gold flatters you most, you are likely warm; if silver does, you are likely cool; if both look good, you are probably neutral.
- White test: hold pure white and off-white fabric by your face. Cool undertones look better in pure white; warm undertones in cream.
Step 2: Match shades to your undertone
| Undertone | Nudes | Pinks | Reds | Bold |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Warm | Caramel, peachy beige | Coral, salmon | Brick, orange-red | Terracotta, copper |
| Cool | Rosy beige, mauve | Fuchsia, cool rose | Blue-red, cherry | Plum, wine |
| Neutral | Dusty rose, soft brown | Rose, berry-pink | Classic true red | Berry, raspberry |
Step 3: Consider your skin depth
Fair skin
Soft pinks, peachy nudes and sheer berries look fresh. For red, try a sheer or satin finish first. Very dark shades can look dramatic, so consider a blotted “stain” effect.
Light to medium skin
Rosy nudes, coral, classic reds and raspberry are especially flattering. This range can move easily between soft and bold.
Olive skin
Olive skin often has a green or golden cast. Warm terracotta, brick red, mauve-brown and deep berry look beautiful. Avoid very pale, chalky nudes.
Deep skin
Rich plums, chocolate browns, deep berries, true reds and bright fuchsia look stunning. For nudes, choose shades with warm caramel or cocoa depth, and consider a lip liner slightly deeper than your lips.
How to find your perfect nude
Your ideal nude is usually one or two shades deeper than your natural lip colour, not your skin colour. A nude that is too pale can wash you out.
Finishes explained
- Matte: long-wearing, bold, can be drying; prep with lip balm
- Satin: soft sheen, comfortable, easy to wear
- Gloss: high shine, makes lips look fuller
- Tinted balm: sheer, hydrating, effortless
How to test lipstick properly
- Swatch on your lips or fingertips; the back of the hand is often a different colour
- Look in natural daylight
- Online, compare swatches on people with a similar skin tone
- Wear it for a few hours to check comfort and wear
Make it last
Exfoliate gently, apply balm, line your lips, apply lipstick, blot with a tissue and apply a second layer. For a quick everyday look, use the same shade as a cream blush; see our 10-minute makeup routine. New lip products to try are in our September beauty launches.
FAQ
Can anyone wear red lipstick?
Yes. The key is choosing the right undertone: orange-reds for warm, blue-reds for cool and true reds for neutral.
Why does my lipstick look different on me than in the tube?
Your natural lip colour and pigmentation mix with the lipstick, especially with sheer formulas.
How do I make lips look fuller?
Use a liner slightly outside your natural line at the centre only, choose a lighter or glossy shade, and add a touch of highlight on the cupid’s bow.
